Ask the ExpertOn this page, you can ask a personal question of our Expert of the Month by clicking the red line below and typing out your question. PLEASE LIMIT QUESTIONS TO HOT ROD HISTORY AND TRADITIONAL BUILDS. Within approximately two weeks, we will post on the website our Expert's or Pioneer's answers to as many questions as we can handle. This will be in the form of an audio message that everyone can listen to and that can best be heard on a PC with a sound card. Thanks for participating! The dry lakes were Art Chrisman's proving ground and, with his brother Lloyd in a ‘34 Ford coupe, they exceeded 140 mph before World War II. After the War, the Chrisman Garage in Compton began producing serious competition machines. Art became one of the five charter members of the 200 MPH Club driving Chet Herbert's “Beast”. His success on the drag strips was, for a time, unrivaled. In 1955, at Bakersfield, he went 140 mph in the famous “No. 25” that had originally belonged to Leroy Neumayer. Art and team built the Hustler I, powered by a 392-cid Chrysler engine, the first car to reach 180 mph. Throughout the 1950's and 60's, Art competed with the best fuelers in the sport. 
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will pure 100% propylene glycol coolant help my ford flathead run cooler than a 50-50 mix, such as Evans or Prestone?
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This is in a 37 chev street rod. The supplier of the brakes says "The master cylinder supplied with the booster is a Corvette 4-wheel disc brake unit." The supplier of the brake line kit says "DO NOT use a built-in residual check valve for 4-wheel disc systems." I would like to know if the Corvette master cylinder has a built-in residual check valve. I'm having some drag problems with the front brakes. I have installed 2 lb. residual check valves in the front and back. Thanks, Dan
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I have an original 1930 model a coupe that I purchased from the original owner and I now have it running. I would like to keep it in its original look so I have been soaking it in WD40 oil to keep it from rusting more. Is WD40 good for this or is there something better. I have been told that WD40 is water based and can cause metal to rust more. Please help me out. Thanks for your time!
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My question deals with installing a '40 rear end in a stock '32 chassis. I
would like to retain the stock '32 spring and mech. shocks and not have to change the rear crossmember. The spring hangers are too long on the '40 rear
Back in the day,how was this installation done and still retain the stock '32 wheelbase? Thanks for your time, super site. Brad
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This is my first try at building a flattie so consider me a rookie in regards to flatheads. My 48 Merc coupe was done in the 5os and equipped with an early "block letter" Edelbrock "regular" hi rise with duel 97s, fentons and milled stock heads. I am restoring it to when it was first hot rodded. My question are how do those early hi rise intakes perform against todays intakes? My last question is what type of flywheel- light aluminum or the stock heavy steel would you suggest for a car the weighs in at 3300 lbs? I enjoy all the early pictures on the site.
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i am working on a 1950 chevy styleline deluxe and i am trying to make it into a mild custom.my question is what would be the best way to lower this car and keep it as original as possable? i have looked everywhere for drop spendals and lowering blocks for it and have yet to find anything. could you please help me out. im trying to lower it as much as i can but still retain a good everyday and safe drive height. thanks
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Hi guys, great site. my question is regarding a chevy 235 six. I have installed a offenhauser manifold with three singles. I,m having trouble getting a good ideal. Should i have installed less carberation? thanks ron
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32 radiator cap, which position is correct to the factory position, the high portion of the cap forward or rearward?
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Hi Jerry, I see your front suspension systems in all the mags I read and I expect to incorporate one in a future rod, probably a 49 ford pickup. MY current question does not pertain to cutting edge suspensions like you build but to an old style setup. My current plans are to run a 27 T, lakes style roadster, all old school. Flathead 8, 39 toploader etc. I am currently considering front suspension.
For some twisted reason I like the look of a ford straight axle hung on the front end with quarter eliptic springs. In your mind, what are the pros and cons of this arrangement, likely hooked up with a parallel four bar step. Would I need a panhard?. Thanks for your time Terry
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What became of the Mosier twin cam heads for chevys? I think they were made for sprint car engines. Thank you.
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I found some ford hubs on ebay and not sure what end of the car they came off of. The info provided by the seller is: O1A 1106 C1, A2, N"... the other is marked "O1A 1106 C1, B3, N"... they both have the letter F. I'm not sure if the F relates to the front or just some ramdom letter.
Thanks
Jeff
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just recently found a 1931 model "a" coupe in a barn still runs drives pretty crappy though but i really love this thing.what would be a good cheap chasis swap. just finished a 1929 model "a"tudor sedan turned out awesome thanks with any help
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I just got done painting my frame and fire wall on my model A coupe. I hear that Dot 5 break fluid dose not eat paint? Is this true? Will I have any problems using dot 5 with 4 wheel drum breaks manual master cylinder 2 lb in line risidual valve? or my hydrolic clutch?
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what engines did they put in the hot rods back in the 1930s and 40s (the most popular)? im doing a history project and i need to know the history of muscle cars and self made hot rods.
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Do older cars, classics, customs, and hot rods (pre 1960) need seat belts?
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I have a 454 in a 68 corvette. It has been modified but I am not sure of the exact specs. It has a high performance cam, headers and a 750 cfm Holly.
Not sure what other mods have been done ( heads, pistons, etc. )
How should I go about to determine the best timing ?
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Hi. Looking for any info/pictures/expierences on flush mounting Model A Ford doors. Building a 31 2 door sedan with hidden hinges. Hinges are on the front, not suicide. Any info would be helpful. Thanks. Dale
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I am lucky enough to have found an older traditional 276 "full house flattie".
The intake is a Edelbrock "regular" hi-rise with duel 97s. My question is should I run with the intake heat riser open or closed off. Also my cam is marked mid shaft with the letters B over AA. It has a small E or P etched on the front. Any ideas on the manufacturer?
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iN THE FIFTIES HOT RODDERS USED AN ADD ON TO CHANGE GEAR RATIOS AT THE REAR END THE ADD ON CAME FROM TRUCKS THAT COULD BE MOONTED ON THE DRIVE TRAIN AND WITH A FLIP OF A LEVER THEY WOULD GO FROM STREET GEARS TO RACING GEARS. ARE THERE ANY COMPANIES SELLING THIS OLD TIME TECHNOLOGY.
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i cannot find rear trim clipps for my 53 victoria2door
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